Positano - Stairways to Heaven
In this third iteration of my trip to Italy, I will try to capture the paradise that exists quietly on the Amalfi Coast in Positano. With pictures that only do it half the justice it deserves, this will be no easy feat...
Exhausted from the burning the candle at both ends in Rome, Florence and Chianti, Max and I were 100% ready to switch to island living for the rest of our trip. The moment we arrived, over Caprese salad and pizza, Max charted out his vision of the next few days with boat rides galore while I scoured through my lists of recommended restaurants for the area. Happily, I can say both of us managed to hit the nail on the head.
After spending the first day on the beach, our next day was spent at sea on a boat helmed by none other than Captain Max himself. We coasted along Amalfi and found a nice quiet cove to anchor in and soak up the strong rays of sun.
After a few hours of absolute bliss, we found our way to Da Adolfo - a famous spot for lunch which you can only access by boat. This is the place to go to enjoy local wine infused with peaches, grilled daily catches and mozzarella served grilled over lemon leaves.
It's also a fab spot to experience organized chaos with waiters bustling about the tables in their swim shorts and sandals, joking around and waving arms left, right and center. It's certainly worth the trip from wherever you are on the Amalfi Coast!
We got into an excellent rhythm in Positano, spending our days on the water, late afternoons by the beach, early evenings on our porch with a glass or two of wine (Michael's Grillo from Monterbernardi was absolutely perfect for this type of drinking) and then we would head to dinner.
Surpringly, I didn't end up taking many photos of our dinners, there is something to be said for simply enjoying a meal with pictures taken only in your mind. Delightful grilled whole fish with lemon and olive oil, stuffed zuchini flowers with ricotta or mozzarella and delicious, delicious octopus....you get the idea right?
One of my favorite days was when we, along with another couple we befriended, rented a boat and captain to take us to Capri. An incredible island renown for its exquisite beauty as well as its high end retail collection, we had the chance to circle the island entirely, swim in the Green grotto which we found more fun and less crowded than the Blue grotto. We had a fun time on the island itself, but only spent about an hour and half there. Unless you want to shop, there isn't much more to do than stop by a wonderful bakery for gelato, espresso and pastries.
On the way back, our captain took us to one of his favorite restaurants. It is also only accessible by boat, you anchor yours and they will come and fetch you in a little motorboat which then brings you directly to their restaurant. Here we dined on salmon and anchovies, fresh tomatoes with basil and olive oil, stuffed eggplant and two whole grilled fish caught fresh mere moments before...all washed down with rosé from Amalfi. This meal will forever stand out in my mind.
Our last meal on Positano was at Da Vincenzo and others included the art gallery and restaurant Max and La Cambusa. As with all of our meals, everything was so fresh, so delicious and so carefully executed that even the memory of it makes me want to start looking up flights to return. It is amazing to me that after so many years of anticipation building up to a trip to Italy, the place would somehow be even more mind blowing. I feel so fortunate to have experienced such special moments in Italy, moments with art, food and love and cannot wait to share my recommendations with friends who venture there soon:)